Hotels in Neelum Valley

Neelum is a long valley rather than a single place, and where you stop decides the trip. Kutton, an hour and a half from Muzaffarabad, is the easiest and most developed, with the Jagran side stream and a cluster of hotels. Keran sits on the river directly opposite Indian-administered Kashmir. Sharda, four to five hours up, has the ruined Sharda Peeth site and the best mid-valley accommodation. Kel is the base for Arang Kel, and Taobat at the head of the valley is another three hours of rough road beyond.

Rooms run Rs 4,500 to Rs 10,000 for a river-facing guesthouse in Kutton, Keran or Sharda, and Rs 12,000 to Rs 20,000 at the handful of better hotels. Wooden huts and cabins are common and often better value for families. Rates rise thirty to fifty percent in July and August, and the valley's total room stock is small, so Eid holidays and peak weekends need booking three to four weeks out rather than a few days.

The road from Muzaffarabad is paved and reasonable as far as Keran, then deteriorates progressively. Beyond Kel it is a rough jeep track. Ratti Gali Lake, reached by jeep from Dowarian and then a walk, is usually accessible from late June to September. Arang Kel is reached from Kel by a short cable lift and then a steep climb. Snow closes the upper valley from roughly November to May, and monsoon landslides between July and September regularly cut the road for hours.

Foreign nationals generally require a No Objection Certificate for travel into the upper valley, because long sections run within sight of the Line of Control. Arrange it in Islamabad or Muzaffarabad before setting off, not at a checkpost. Photography of military positions is not permitted anywhere along the river. Mobile coverage is patchy and only some networks work at all, so tell someone your route. Carry cash; there are no dependable ATMs above Muzaffarabad.