Book in Neelum Valley

Neelum is a long valley rather than a single place, and where you stop decides the trip. Kutton, an hour and a half from Muzaffarabad, is the easiest and most developed, with the Jagran side stream and a cluster of hotels. Keran sits on the river directly opposite Indian-administered Kashmir. Sharda, four to five hours up, has the ruined Sharda Peeth site and the best mid-valley accommodation. Kel is the base for Arang Kel, and Taobat at the head of the valley is another three hours of rough road beyond.

Rooms run Rs 4,500 to Rs 10,000 for a river-facing guesthouse in Kutton, Keran or Sharda, and Rs 12,000 to Rs 20,000 at the handful of better hotels. Wooden huts and cabins are common and often better value for families. Rates rise thirty to fifty percent in July and August, and the valley's total room stock is small, so Eid holidays and peak weekends need booking three to four weeks out rather than a few days.